The Peranakans & Their Jewellery

✿ A special dedication to the Love of My Life ✿


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Introduction
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Total population : 7 million
Regions with significant populations : Malaysia, Indonesia and Singapore
Language : Baba Malay


The Peranakan community evolved in the 15th and 16th century when Chinese traders established trade ties with the locals from the Malay Peninsula, including Singapore. Cross-cultural relationships and marriages were the natural by-products when these traders married local Malay women.

Peranakan and Baba-Nyonya, which means, "locally born, men and ladies" in the Malay language are terms used for the descendants of these Chinese immigrants to the Nusantara region during the Colonial era. It applies especially to the ethnic Chinese populations of the British Straits Settlements of Malaya and the Dutch-controlled island of Java and other locations.

While the term Peranakan is most commonly used among the ethnic Chinese for those of Chinese descent also known as Straits Chinese (土生華人; named after the Straits Settlements), there are also other, comparatively small Peranakan communities, such as Indian Hindu Peranakans (Chitty), Indian Muslim Peranakans (Jawi Pekan) and Eurasian Peranakans (Kristang = Christians).


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The Peranakan Jewellery
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In the late 19th century, the industrial revolution in Europe led to an economic boom in the Straits Settlements and Bristish Malaya. The demand for raw materials like tin and rubber enabled the Peranakans, many of whom were landowners and entrepreneurs, to make their fortunes.

The Peranakans often specially commissioned their own jewellery. Many of their pieces are also identifiably Peranakan in terms of form, function or design.

New wealth, new techniques in jewellery making, the influence of styles from Europe and the arrival of jewellers from Ceylon all prompted those Peranakans who could afford it to commission and purchase. Peranakan jewellery made in this period is often regarded as the finest quality of Peranakan jewellery.

As in other cultures, jewellery had a functional as well as symbolic role amoung the Peranakans. For example, using the kerosang to fastern and adorn the baju panjung (long tunic), or as a form of protection for children and definitely as an indicator of family wealth and social status.

Most of the jewellery is made of gold, suasa (9k gold) or silver. Suasa is popular in the 19th and early 20th century. Suasa is a Malay term that refers to an alloy of gold and copper of approximity 9k purity. The Peranakans liked suasa because of its hardness and durability which made it suitable as a metal for jewellery. Also, as it contained a fair percentage of gold, it did not tarnish easily compared to silver. The yellowish or reddish appearance of gold, suasa and silver guilt (silver dipping in gold) was considered auspicious and therefore appropriate to be worn for important occasions. Silver or 'white' metal were for daily use, death and mourning.

Most of the jewellery was made by Chinese craftsman, who excelled in producing pieces to cater to the tastes of the Nonyas (Nyonyas refers to the ladies). Nonyas favoured the Chinese jewellery makers for their ability to translate their special requests into intricately made jewellery. The jewellery was made with a variety of techniques - granulation, casting, repousse, engraving and filigree.

In the late 19th and 20th century, some Peranakan families, commissioned Sri Lankan (Ceylonese) craftsmen to produce special pieces of jewellery. Some Peranakans today still recall these craftsmen coming to their homes to make kerosang (brooch), bangles and necklaces.


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Peranakan Jewellery Today
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The renewal of interest in things Peranakan over the last two decades in Singapore has led to sustained efforts to promote and re-interpret Peranakan culture for a new generation. Women of all ages, from inside and outside the Peranakan community have taken to wearing the Nonya Kebaya (blouse worn by Peranakan ladies). This has led to an increased demand for Peranakan jewellery used to accessorise the kebaya.

Modern-day Peranakans, however, do not purchase or commission unique jewellery as they did in the past. Instead, many choose to buy antique Peranakan jewellery, if they can afford it. Old jewellery that is no longer practical is sometimes re-fashioned into new pieces to give them a new lease of life. The resurgence in the popularity of Peranakan jewellery and the limited supply of it contributes to its exclusivity.

Some Peranakans have also taken to wearing silver and pearl mourning jewellery on special occasions like weddings, birthdays and annual dinners. Once deemed taboo, their owners now proudly wear these heirloom pieces.

Many collectors also believe that modern jewellers are still not able to replicate the look and feel of these pieces. The emergence of modern replicas and faux Peranakan jewellery is strong evidence of the demand of Perankan jewellery.


Singapore Peranakan Museum
@ Peranakan Museum, 39 Armenian Street

http://www.peranakanmuseum.sg